Global fashion brands exploiting Bangladesh workers: Study

Research of 1,000 clothes factories discovered some vogue corporations ‘engaged in unfair practices’, together with H&M, Lidl and GAP.

Main worldwide vogue manufacturers, together with Zara, H&M and GAP, are exploiting Bangladesh garment trade employees, with a few of them concerned in unfair practices and paying the suppliers beneath the price of manufacturing, based on a research printed on Wednesday.

The research that surveyed 1,000 Bangladeshi factories making clothes for world manufacturers and retailers throughout the COVID pandemic discovered that many had been paid the identical value regardless of the worldwide pandemic and rising prices.

Greater than half of the clothes factories skilled a minimum of one of many following: order cancellations, refusal to pay, value reductions or delayed fee for items, based on the research printed by Aberdeen College and the advocacy group Rework Commerce.

“Such unfair buying and selling practices impacted suppliers’ employment practices leading to employee turnover, lack of jobs and decrease wages,” the research discovered.

Of the 1,138 manufacturers/retailers named within the research, 37 % had been reported as having engaged in unfair practices, together with Zara’s Inditex, H&M, Lidl, GAP, New Yorker, Primark, Subsequent and others.

The research additionally discovered that one in 5 factories struggled to pay the authorized minimal wage since they reopened after the March and April 2020 lockdown.

It additionally discovered that some corporations demanded value reductions for clothes ordered earlier than the pandemic began in March 2020, whereas some others refused to budge on value, regardless of hovering prices and rampant inflation.

The report included the responses of some firms.

Inditex mentioned it has “assured fee for all orders already positioned and in strategy of manufacturing and labored with monetary establishments to facilitate the availability of loans to suppliers on beneficial phrases”.

German grocery store chain Lidl mentioned it took the “accusations very significantly”, including that it “takes its duty in the direction of employees in Bangladesh and different nations the place our suppliers produce very significantly and is dedicated to making sure that core social requirements are complied with all through the provision chain”.

Primark mentioned that, owing to the pandemic, it had taken “the extremely troublesome choice in March 2020 to cancel all orders which had not but been handed over”.

The research beneficial establishing a vogue watchdog that will assist to curb unfair practices by guaranteeing “that patrons/retailers can't dump disproportionate and inappropriate dangers onto their suppliers and that retailers and types conform to the norms of honest industrial practices”.

In August, Bangladesh’s garment trade confronted a double whammy from slowing world demand and an vitality disaster at house that was threatening to thwart the nation’s pandemic restoration.

In the identical month, main world retailers agreed on a two-year pact with garment employees and manufacturing unit homeowners in Bangladesh, extending a pre-existing settlement that makes retailers liable if their factories don't meet labour security requirements, together with retail giants H&M, Inditex, Quick Retailing’s Uniqlo, Hugo Boss, and Adidas.

The exploitation of employees and poor labour security requirements have been highlighted after the Rana Plaza complicated collapse in 2013 that killed greater than 1,100 garment employees, the deadliest incident in garment trade historical past.

The European Union warned customers to cease utilizing their garments like throwaway gadgets and mentioned it plans to counter the polluting use of mass-market quick vogue.

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